Sometimes the deliciousness of a restaurant begins with the building itself.
The stately Beaux-Arts style building at the corner of Granby and Main streets in downtown Norfolk stands as a reminder of another time. The exterior entrance greets visitors with grand columns, and heavy doors open up into a well-appointed dining room.
The building was originally home to Virginia Bank & Trust Company starting in 1909. I have loved this space for many years, as Trilogy Bistro and later Norfolk Tap Room. Now it’s the new location for Mermaid Winery.
Inside it is airy and open, with gorgeous touches throughout. The age of the building and the quality craftsmanship show through in the woodwork, and a number of sea-inspired hues of blue and green adorn walls and accents. A large mermaid mural greets diners.
Owner Jennifer Eichert moved Mermaid Winery from its original location in Ghent, where it has been for the past dozen years since opening. A few years back, the winery, wine bar, and bistro also opened a Virginia Beach outpost.
The grand opening for the new Norfolk location of Mermaid Winery was held in early July.
THE EAT: GENTLEMAN’S CUT PORK TENDERLOIN, $25
For my entree, I picked the Gentleman’s Cut Pork Tenderloin.
The tenderloin is glazed in an addictive boozy berry sauce, and sliced on the bias to show off the pink interior. It’s stacked on top of a creamy, savory mound of truffle mashed potatoes and tender grilled carrots, also cut on the bias.
I love pork tenderloin, and this one was prepared wonderfully. It was tender and flavorful, with just the right amount of pink signifying it was not overcooked. The glaze was a sassy-sweet offering full of flavor, accenting the sweetness of the pork gorgeously.
The truffle mashed potatoes won me over in both taste and texture, and the carrots were a real treat.
We started the meal by sharing a few appetizers.
Two Mermaid Tacos ($14) come to an order. Here soft flour tortillas are stuffed with perfectly blackened tuna, fresh avocado, charred pineapple pico de gallo and crispy tortilla chips. A sassy sriracha sour cream is drizzled on each.
We also shared the Charred Corn Crème Brûlèe ($15). This is one of the more unusual, in a good way, dishes I’ve had in some time. A beautifully seasoned rich, thick corn custard is served in a ramekin with a crisp, slightly sweet brûlèe topping. Crisp shards of bacon are served on top of that, and sharp pickled red onion comes on the side, a lovely foil to the corn.
Dessert was a white chocolate cheesecake that was completely decadent. The creamy offering was full-on chocolate flavor, accented with whipped cream and blueberries. I’m not often a dessert person, but I did share it, and I am glad I did.
Service from Michelle was wonderful.
THE DRINK: CHAMPAGNE BAUGET-JOUETTE
Wine is the name of the game at Mermaid Winery, but it’s not just their own wine they pour here.
There are vintages that come from the urban winery, crafted with grapes from Virginia and California. Choose from a selection of whites, reds, and sweet wines under the Mermaid label.
Or pick from dozens of other wines by the bottle, glass or flights from across the country and around the world.
At dinner we enjoyed a bottle of Champagne Bauget-Jouette, from the hillsides of Epernay, France. This is a true Champagne – note the capital “c” – done in the methode champenoise. The wine is 50 percent chardonnay, 45 percent pinot meunier, and five percent pinot noir.
A lovely straw gold color with lots of small, tight bubbles, there is a lovely creaminess and richness with a tangy sweetness that is very well balanced. Fresh and light, look for notes of apple, pear, and peach on the nose.
Mermaid Winery is at 101 Granby St., Norfolk. Call 757-233-4155 or visit www.MermaidWinery.com
Patrick Evans-Hylton, [email protected]
