Surf’s up with tacos and mai tais at Bonzer Shack on the Outer Banks – Daily Press

Folks have been surfing on the East Coast for more than a century, with Burke Haywood Bridgers being documented as hanging ten in 1909 in Wrightsville Beach. Today, the surf culture is strong on the Outer Banks, and that includes the culinary aspect, from tasty handhelds like tacos, to refreshing, tropical-inspired drinks.

The surf culture vibe is strong at the Bonzer Shack in Kill Devil Hills. Bonzer is a slang term for excellent in Australia and New Zealand. Inside and out surfboards and other iconic touchstones find a place of honor.

The Eat: Shack tacos, price varies

Fish tacos are a big part of surf culture cuisine, a tasty import from the sunny Pacific Ocean shores on Mexico’s Baja California peninsula. From modest beginnings, fish tacos made their way north to San Diego some six decades ago, and have grown in popularity since.

Tacos, with a focus on seafood, are prominent on the menu at the Bonzer Shack. There are around a half-dozen taco offerings in all, including the always popular fish tacos and shrimp tacos, and a veggie taco for a meatless option.

One that immediately caught my attention was the softshell crab tacos, a simple offering of generous-sized fried local softshell crab atop Shack Slaw, a sassy variation on a classic creamy southern slaw.

All shack taco plates include two tacos. The softshell crab tacos are market priced; the day I visited in mid-May the price was $24. This offering is also subject to soft shell availability.

I love soft shells, and I was tempted to just eat the crab alone, but I am glad I didn’t. Crisp and golden brown on the outside, the crab was tender and flavorful once I bit into it. There was light seasoning, and the true flavor of the crustacean came through.

The soft, supple flour tortilla was a nice foil to the crunch of the crab, and the slaw added an additional element of richness. I enjoyed every bite.

I also ordered the queso steak taco. Here sautéed, shaved ribeye steak and onions are stuffed in grilled flour tortillas and enrobed in queso. The cost is $13.99. I got an order of Shack Slaw to go alongside.

These tacos were amazing. It had the flavor profile of a very good Philly-style cheesesteak sandwich. The meat was flavorful and tender, the translucent onions sweet, with the rich, melty cheese pulling it all together.

It was messy, and I unabashedly licked my fingers clean.

A big fan of classic cucumber salads, I was glad I ordered the offering here at the Bonzer Shack. Bathed in vinegar with a touch of heat, the mix of cucumbers, onion and seasoning were refreshing, and highly addictive.

___

The Drink: Rip Tai

I love a good mai tai, the Polynesian tiki drink that immediately comes to mind for folks when they think of Hawaii. The Rip Tai here is a good version of it, with a lovely local twist.

Along with the usual suspects of lime and pineapple juice, orgeat, and triple sec, is local Kill Devil Silver rum. The drink is topped off with soda water.

The Bonzer Shack is at 1200 S. Virginia Dare Trail, Kill Devil Hills. Call 252-480-1010 or visit www.BonzerShack.com.

Patrick Evans-Hylton, [email protected]