I remember, in 1995, when I was in culinary school at the now-closed Norfolk campus of Johnson & Wales University and several other would-be chefs were talking about a new restaurant that opened.
Many of us would go on our own self-guided field trips; on several of these trips was the first time I met such local culinary luminaries as Monroe Duncan, Bobby Huber, Todd Jurich and Sydney Meers.
We met another who was in the process of making a name for himself, having been at such notable restaurants of the day, Big Tomato and Pasta e Pani. His name was Amarin Reelachart, and his restaurant was Eurasia.
The tiny spot in Loehmann’s Plaza was named after the creative mix-match of cuisines that Reelachart had experience in, including American regional, French, Italian, and Thai. Later the chef/owner moved to another Virginia Beach location closer to the Oceanfront.
Eurasia is still there, in Linkhorn Shoppes. The restaurant is no longer owned by Reelachart, and it has since doubled in size. The menu has expanded too, but one thing remains the same, it’s as delicious now as I remember it being almost 30 years ago.
THE EAT: BRAISED LAMB SHANK, $27
Lamb is one of my favorite meats.
It’s flavorful and rich and very versatile. Years ago lamb got a bad rap for being gamey, but what wasn’t appreciated or recognized was the grassy flavors that are unique to it. If you haven’t had lamb in a while, give it another try.
And you may want to start with the Lamb Shank at Eurasia.
Here the lamb is braised in a beautiful, complex mole – a Mexican amalgamation of chili peppers, spices, and more. It enrobes the meat, embracing the sauce essence and playing beautifully off the lamb’s flavor profile.
The long braise here also makes the lamb incredibly tender, literally coming off the shank with the slightest piercing of a fork’s tines.
Equally delicious was the side of Spinach rice stuffed with peas, topped with a sprinkling of salty cotija cheese and micro cilantro. All the components played perfectly together.
We started the meal with Black Truffle Flatbread, one of the best flatbreads I’ve had in memory.
The thin, baked dough was a crispy platform for a gorgeous fontina cheese mornay sauce, shaved black truffle, and nothing else. The nuttiness of the cheese and the earthiness of the truffles were a perfect match up. The dish was served atop a bed of arugula.
Another starter was Oysters Eurasia, Chef Brian Wegener’s amazing version of the classic Oysters Rockefeller. Here the shucked bivalves are stuffed with an addictive mix of bacon, cream cheese, parmesan and spinach, then sprinkled with panko crumbs before being broiled to bubbly perfection.
THE DRINK: LILLET IN THE RYE
Whiskey sours have long been a favorite cocktail of mine. I love the way the whiskey is brighter up with a fresh pop of citrus, making it one refreshing imbibe.
From all the creative cocktails at Eurasia, the Lillet in the Rye caught my attention. Here is a delicious rendition of the classic whiskey sour, with a wonderful blend of Knob Creek Rye, Lillet Blanc, Cointreau, simple syrup, and lemon juice.
The grassy heat of the rye was a beautiful platform for the drink, lifted with the sweetness of the Lillet, a lovely aperitif wine, and the orangey profile of the Cointreau. The simple syrup sweetened things up, and the lemon juice brought a delicious sourness to the party.
Eurasia Cafe is at 960 Laskin Road, Virginia Beach. Call 757-422-0184 or visit www.EurasiaVB.com
Patrick Evans-Hylton, [email protected]
